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24 Second Shot Clock Circuit

Description:
This is a circuit intended to be used in basketball shot clock.
Circuit diagram

Notes:
To start in 24 seconds; 24s LOAD SW and Reset SW should be push simultaneously. If not, the count will start in 99. Pulse input can be connected to 555 astable multivibrator but must be calibrated for real time clock. The PAUSE SW must have a Switch Debouncer so that the counter will count normal when counting is paused and then turn-on.
When the count reach 00, the NOR gate will have an output of logic1 that will turn on the two transistor. The buzzer will rung and light will turn on. The two transistors are continuously turn-on not until LOAD SW and Reset SW is push. All have a +5v power supply.
author:Milardo de Guzman, milardo_dg@yahoo.com

Source: http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk
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Batteries charger & PSU - ideal for digital cameras Circuit

Circuit diagram
This circuit was created for digital cameras. It's known the digital cameras have considerable power consumption. For example my camera Minolta E223 requires approximately 800 mA. In practice a mains power supply or high capacity NiMH accumulators (batteries) can satisfy this demand.
This circuit consists of two parts, charger and adapter. The transformer, rectifier bridge and buffer condensator are common. Adapter is quite simply its main part is an adjustable voltage regulator LM 317 according to usual setting. Output is a suitable for camera jack plug. Voltage can be adjusted in range 2-9 V.
In the charger circuit a 7805 fixed voltage regulator works as current generator assured constant current during charging. This charging current can be adjusted with the 100 /1W potentiometer in range about 50-300 mA indicated by a small current measuring instrument. From one to four batteries can be charged simultaneously. The switch must be set according to number of batteries, and charging current of batteries given by manufacturer must be adjusted. This circuit doesn't measure charging time and charging condition of batteries. Manufacturers give charging time, usually 14-16 h. I solved this problem with a simply, cheap mechanical mains timer. I think its accuracy is sufficient. 

author:Sandor Dobany from Hungary, dsandor@minimail.hu
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5 Lamp / LED Flash Driver

Description 
General Description of the following circuit. This circuit is based around HT–2050 manufactured by HOLTEK semiconductors. It is a low cost, low-power C-MOS LSI designed for lamp andLED flash driver. It requires minimum external components.You can operate it with just two AAA cell or 3v Battery.Circuit has five flash outputs with 10mA drive capability that can implement random or sequence flashing function controlled by one option pin.It only requires one external resistor for typical application. It is very suitable for the use of the flash products such as disco glasses, disco hat, gift card, X’mas decoration and so forth.
author: Izhar Fareed - izha@rgmx.us 

source- extremecircuits.net
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12V to 220V Inverter 180W by 2N3055

This is AC Inverter circuit ,It Converts 12VDC to 220VAC Output 180W. Use easy Circuit Square Wave Oscillator Generator 50Hz.
So Boost up Current High by 2N3055 Drive Transformer output 220V 50HZ From Voltage Supply 12V 10A.
This circuit is converter to use to charge DC12V from the lead-acid batteries to AC 250V for use in a car, Boats or mobile homes. There are the output power There are the sufficient power to the small electronics such as a lamp or electrical soldering iron. In circuit use only six transistors, transformer and a few electronic parts. So it is easy to build and cheap, too.
How it works
-The Q3(BC549) and Q4(BC549) both are the a stable multivibrator (AMV) has output is pulse square wave from about 50 Hz. They will alternately inductor current.
-And the power section also works on push-pull form.
- When Q3 induct current will have the current flows through Q2, making Q1 connects the half coil circuit of the primary transformer with the 12V drop across voltage from battery.
- When Q4 induct current, transistor Q6 will connects the primary coil circuit another one to drop across the replace 12V voltage.
- If you use the transistor in the output section to be number: RCA 40411 will be has the current flows through the primary coil in each time is 10 amperes. To power output (Way secondary coil) is 180 watt. However, if the number 2N3055 power output will be have a 90 watt.



How to uses.
- Because transistors being used in saturation. Therefore, it must be held on a large heat sink. there is the cooling fins that size over than 100mm up and also multiple fins. And If using transformer is triodes core, it makes a smaller size.
- The circuit is small, because have a little device makes do no adjust to a sine wave. Thus the wave output will be a square. Which may be a result of some electrical appliances, such as, dimmer lights and electric motors, may be will not work. Because it is designed to be used with a sine wave power, and is not recommended for use with color TV and video or audio tape.

4 comments

Mic-Line Balance input

   A professional suggestion for those interested in improving sound. The circuit constitutes the part of input mixing console sound from the microphone or source of high level . It can be used on it's own or be multiplied to the number of channels required. It includes all the useful functions such as, phantom power , reverse face, signal attenuation for avoiding distortions from high level signals regulating channel gains and the rest of the stages will be added next stages ,for full mixing console. Attention must be paid to the quality of the materials used. This circuit may used, previous to Parametric EQ circuit.

0 comments

Sound Level Meter

This nifty sound level meter is a perfect one chip replacement for the standard analog meters. It is completely solid state and will never wear out. The whole circuit is based on the LM3915 audio level IC and uses only a few external components. This circuit can also be integrated into audio amp projects. 
Circuit Schematic



Part

Total Qty.

Description

Substitutions
C112.2uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C2, C310.1uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
R1, R321K 1/4W Resistor
R2110K 1/4W Resistor
R41100K 1/4W Resistor
R511M 1/4W Resistor
D111N914 Silicon Diode
Q112N3906 PNP Transistor
LED1-LED1010Standard LED or LED Array
U11LM3915 Audio Level IC
MISC1Board, Wire, Socket For U1

Notes

  1. V+ can be anywhere from 3V to 20V.
  2. The input is designed for standard audio line voltage (1V P-P) and has a maximum input voltage of 1.3V.
  3. Pin 9 can be disconnected from +V to make the circuit use a moving dot display instead of a bar graph display.
  4. Thanks to help from the forum, this circuit has been improved from the original version to include a peak detector for a more stable and viewable output. This page has been updated with the new circuit.
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Crystal Radio

I have received a number of emails regarding schematics for crystal radios. After about the third email, I figured that I may as well put one on my page. So here it is. The circuit is very simple with only 5 parts, but performs very nicely when used with the right size antenna. 

 Circut  Schematic

Part

Total Qty.

Description

Substitutions
C11Tuning Capacitor (See Notes)
D111N34 Germanium Diode
L11Loopstick Antenna (See Notes)
SPKR11Crystal Earphone
MISC1Wire, Board, Wire For Antenna, Knob For C1
Notes

  1. C1 and L1 can be bought, or salvaged from an old AM radio (which is where I got mine). You may need to experiment with the connections on L1 in order to get the best (or any) signal.
  2. You may or may not need the ground connection. I never use it and the radio usually works fine without it.
  3. The bigger the antenna, the more stations you pick up and the louder you hear them. On my radio, I get about 10 stations, 3 of which are very loud in the earphone. Of course, not everyone has room for a 60' antenna...
  4. A 47K resistor in parallel with the earphone will help properly load the detector (This suggestion from Kb8tej1@aol.com)

 Source http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/cradio.asp

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Charger for mobile phones

Description

Most mobile chargers do not have current/voltage reguLation or short-circuit protection. These chargers provide raw 6-12V DC for charging the battery pack. Most of the mobile phone battery packs have a rating of 3.6V, 650 mAh. For increasing the life of the battery, slow charging at low current is advisable. Six to ten hours of charging at 150-200mA current is a suitable option. This will prevent heating up of the battery and extend its life. The circuit described here provides around 180mA current at 5.6V and protects the mobile phone from unexpected voltage fluctuations that develop on the mains line. So the charger can be left ‘on’ over night to replenish the battery charge. The circuit protects the mobile phone as well as the charger by immediately disconnecting the output when it senses a voltage surge or a short circuit in the battery pack or connector. It can be called a ‘middle man’ between the existing charger and the mobile phone. It has features like voltage and current regulation, over-current protection, and high- and low-voltage cut-off. An added speciality of the circuit is that it incorporates a short delay of ten seconds to switch on when mains resumes following a power failure. This protects the mobile phone from instant voltage spikes. The circuit is designed for use in conjunction with a 12V, 500mA adaptor (battery eliminator). Op-amp IC CA3130 is used as a voltage comparator. It is a BiMOS operational amplifier with MOSFET input and CMOS output. Inbuilt gate-protected p-channel MOSFETs are used in the input to provide very high input impedance. The output voltage can swing to either positive or negative (here, ground) side. The inverting input (pin 2) of IC1 is provided with a variable voltage obtained through the wiper of potmeter VR1. The non-inverting input (pin 3) of IC1 is connected to 12V stabilised DC voltage developed across zener ZD1. This makes the output of IC1 high.

After a power resumption, capacitor C1 provides delay of a few seconds to charge to a potential higher than of inverting pin 2 of CA3130, thus the output of IC1 goes high only after the delay. In the case of a heavy power line surge, zener diode ZD1 (12V, 1W) will breakdown and short pin 3 of IC1 to ground and the output of IC1 drops to ground level. The output of IC1 is fed to the base of npn Darlingtontransistor BD677 (T2) for charging the battery. Transistor T2 conducts only when the output of IC1 is high. During conduction the emitter voltage of T2 is around 10V, whichpasses through R6 to restrict the charging current to around 180 mA. Zener diode ZD2 regulates the charging voltage to around 5.6V. When a short-circuit occurs at the battery terminal, resistor R8 senses the over-current, allowing transistor T1 to conduct and light up LED1. Glowing of LED2 indicates the charging mode, while LED1 indicates shortcircuit or over-current status. The value of resistor R8 is important to get the desired current level to operate the cut-off. With the given value of R8 (3.3 ohms), it is 350 mA. Charging current can also be changed by increasing or decreasing the value of R7 using the ‘I=V/R’ rule. Construct the circuit on a common PCB and house in a small plastic case. Connect the circuit between the output lines of the charger and the input pins of the mobile phone with correct polarity.
 author: Izhar Fareed - izhargmx.us  
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Phone Busy Indicator

Have you ever been using the modem or fax and someone else picks up the phone, breaking the connection? Well, this simple circuit should put an end to that. It signals that the phone is in use by lighting a red LED. When the phone is not in use, a green LED is lit. It needs no external power and can be connected anywhere on the phone line, even mounted inside the phone.  
Note: This circuit may cause problems for some when used. You may want to build a different circuit.

Schematic

Parts:

Part
Total Qty.
Description
Substitutions
R1
1
3.3K 1/4 W Resistor
R2
1
33K 1/4 W Resistor
R3
1
56K 1/4 W Resistor
R4
1
22K 1/4 W Resistor
R5
1
4.7K 1/4 W Resistor
Q1, Q2
2
2N3392 NPN Transistor
BR1
1
1.5 Amp 250 PIV Bridge Rectifier
LED1
1
Red LED
LED2
1
Green LED
MISC
1
Wire, Case, Phone Cord

Notes:

1. This is a very simple circuit and is easily made on a perf board and mounted inside the phone.
2. LED1 and LED2 flash on and off while the phone is ringing.
3. Do not worry about mixing up the Tip and Ring connections.
4. The ring voltage on a phone line is anywhere from 90 to 130 volts. Make sure no one calls while you are making the line connections or you'll know it. :-)
5. In some countries or states you will have to ask the phone company before you connect this to the line. It might even require an inspection.
6. If the circuit causes distortion on the phone line, connect a 680 ohm resistor in between one of the incoming line wires and the bridge rectifier. 

1 comments

100W MOSFET power amplifier

A 100W MOSFET power amplifier circuit based on IRFP240 and IRFP9240 MOSFETs is shown here. The amplifier operates from a +45/-45 V DC dual supply and can deliver 100 watt rms into an 8 ohm speaker and 160 watt rms into a 4 ohm speaker. This Hi-Fi amplifier circuit is suitable for a lot applications like general purpose amplifier, guitar amplifier, keyboard amplifier. The amplifier can be also used as a sub woofer amplifier but a subwoofer filter stage has to be added before the input stage. The amplifier has a low distortion of 0.1%, a damping factor greater than 200, input sensitivity of 1.2V and the bandwidth is from 4Hz to 4 KHz
Circuit diagram.
 About the circuit.
Capacitor C8 is the input DC decoupling capacitor which blocks DC voltage if any from the input source. IF unblocked, this DC voltage will alter the bias setting s of the succeeding stages. Resistor R20 limits the input current to Q1 C7 bypasses any high frequency noise from the input. Transistor Q1 and Q2 forms the input differential pair and the constant current source circuit built around Q9 and Q10 sources 1mA. Preset R1 is used for adjusting the voltage at the output of the amplifier. Resistors R3 and R2 sets the gain of the amplifier. The second differential stage is formed by transistors Q3 and Q6 while transistors Q4 and Q5 forms a current mirror which makes the second differential pair to drain an identical current. This is done in order to improve linearity and gain. Power amplification stage based on Q7 and Q8 which operates in the class AB mode. Preset R8 can be used for adjusting the quiescent current of the amplifier. The network comprising of capacitor C3 and resistor R19 improves high frequency stability and prevents the chance of oscillation. F1 and F2 are safety fuses.
Circuit setup.
Set R1 at midpoint before powering up and then adjust it slowly in order to get a minimum voltage (less than 50mV0 at the output. Next step is setting up the quiescent current and keep the preset R8 in minimum resistance and connect a multimeter across points marked X & Y in the circuit diagram. Now adjust R8 so that the multimeter reads 16.5mV which corresponds to 50mA quiescent current.
Notes.
  • Assemble the circuit on a good quality PCB.
  • Use a +45/-45 V DC, 3A dual supply for powering the circuit.
  • Power supply voltage must not exceed +55/-55 V DC.
  • Before connecting the speaker, check the zero signal output voltage of the amplifier and in any case it should not be higher than 50mV. If it is higher than 50mV, check the circuit for any error. Replacing Q1, Q2 with another set could also solve the problem.
  • Fit Q7 and Q8 to a 2°C/W heat sink. Both Q7 and Q8 must be isolated from the heat sink using mica sheets. Heat sink mounting kits for almost all power transistors/ MOSFETs of almost all package styles are readily available in the market.
  • All resistors other than R10, R11 and R19 are 1/4 watt metal film resistors. R10 and R11 are 5W wire wound type while R19 is a 3W wire wound type.
Power supply for the 100W MOSFET power amplifier.

 A basic dual power supply is used for the amplifier circuit. If 6A ampere bridge is not available, then make one using four 6A6 diodes.C10 and C11 are high frequency bypass capacitors. Filter capacitors C8 and C9 must be at least 10000uF, higher the value lesser the ripple. Optional 3A fuses can be added to the +45 and -45 lines. Transformer T1 can be a 230V primary, 35-0-35 V secondary, 300VA step down transformer.

2 comments

State Variable Filters

With the advancement in IC technology, a number of manufacturers now offer universal filters having simultaneous low-pass, high-pass, and band-pass output responses. Notch and all-pass functions are also available by combining these output responses in the uncommitted op-amp. Because of its versatility, this filter is called the universal filter. It provides the user with easy control of the gain and Q-factor. It is also called a state-variable filter.

The filters we have discussed so far are relatively simple single op-amp circuits or several single op-amp circuits cascaded. The state-variable filter, however, makes use of three or four op-amps and two feedback paths. Though a bit more complicated, the state variable configuration offers several features not available with the other simpler filters. First, all three filter types (low-pass, band-pass, and high-pass) are available simultaneously. By properly summing these outputs some very interesting responses can be made. Bandpass filters with high Q can be built. The damping and/or critical frequency could be electroni­cally tuned.

A schematic of a three op-amp, unity gain state variable filter is depicted in figure. Op-amps A2 and A3 are integrators while op-amp .A1 sums the input with the low-pass output and a portion of the bandpass output. The circuit is actually a small analog com­puter designed to solve the differential equation (transfer function) for each filter type.
For proper operation Rj = R2 = R3 = R; R4 = R5 = R,; and Cx = C2 = C.
The critical frequencies of each of the three filters are equal and is as given as
The damping is set by R6 and R7. This determines the types of low-pass and high-pass responses (Bessel, Butterworth, or Chebyshev)
α = 3 [R7 / R6+R7]
It also sets the Q and the gain of the bandpass filter
Q = 1/ α and Aband.pass = Q
The state variable filter produces the standard second-order low-pass band-pass, and high-pass responses. The critical frequencies of each are equal, and the damping is set by the feedback from the bandpass out­put. For all three outputs this damp­ing has precisely the same effect (at the same numerical values) as it did for the single op-amp filters. For low-pass and high-pass, the damp­ing coefficient of 1.414 provides a Butterworth response. Damping of 1.732 provides Bessel response, and α = 0.766 causes 3 db peaks (Chebyshev). The high-pass – 3 db frequencies are similarly shifted by the high-pass correction factor khp = 1/klp
For the band-pass section, changing the damping coefficient inversely alters the Q and gain (at critical frequency).
But the critical frequency is set by Rf and C. It is not altered by changes in the damping coefficient. This means that changes in damping only (and directly) affect the BW. So tuning of bandpass filter is very convenient. Resistor R adjusts the centre frequency only. Resistors RA and RB adjusts the BW only.
At this point, it is critical that we realize that optimum performance from all three outputs cannot be obtained simultaneously. For instance if we want maximum flatness in the passbands of low-pass and high-pass outputs, we must select a Butterworth response with α = 1.414. But a damping coefficient of 1.414 gives a Q and Af of 0.707 each. The bandpass filter will not be very selective and will attenuate even the centre frequency by 30%.
On the other hand, if Q is selected to be 20 to achieve reasonable selectivity and centre-frequency gain, the low-pass and high-pass outputs will have a damping coefficient of 0.05. This will cause a pass band peak of over 25 db. We can either optimize the bandpass output or the low-pass and high-pass outputs.

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5 to 30 Minute Timer

Descriptipn:
A switched timer for intervals of 5 to 30 minutes incremented in 5 minute steps.
 Circuit diagram

Notes:
Simple to build, simple to make, nothing too complicated here. However you must use the CMOS type 555 timer designated the 7555, a normal 555 timer will not work here due to the resistor values. Also a low leakage type capacitor must be used for C1, and I would strongly suggest a Tantalum Bead type. Switch 3 adds an extra resistor in series to the timing chain with each rotation, the timing period us defined as :-
Timing = 1.1 C1 x R1
Note that R1 has a value of 8.2M with S3 at position "a" and 49.2M at position "f". This equates to just short of 300 seconds for each position of S3. C1 and R1 through R6 may be changed for different timing periods. The output current from Pin 3 of the timer, is amplified by Q1 and used to drive a relay.
Parts
Relay 9 volt coil with c/o contact (1)
S1 On/Off (1)
S2 Start (1)
S3 Range (1)
IC1 7555 (1)
B1 9V (1)
C1 33uF CAP (1)
Q1 BC109C NPN (1)
D1 1N4004 DIODE (1)
C2 100n CAP (1)
R6,R5,R4,R3,R2,R1 8.2M RESISTOR (6)
R8 100k RESISTOR (1)
R7 4.7k RESISTOR (1)

author: Andy Collinson
e-mail: mailto:anc@mitedu.freeserve.co.uk
Source: http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk
0 comments

DC Motor Reversing Circuit

Description:
A DC motor reversing circuit using non latching push button switches. Relays control forward, stop and reverse action, and the motor cannot be switched from forward to reverse unless the stop switch is pressed first. 
Circuit diagram

Notes:
At first glance this may look over-complicated, but this is simply because three non-latching push button switches are used. When the forward button is pressed and released the motor will run continuously in one direction. The Stop button must be used before pressing the reverse button. The reverse button will cause the motor to run continuously in the opposite direction, or until the stop button is used. Putting a motor straight into reverse would be quite dangerous, because when running a motor develops a back emf voltage which would add to current flow in the opposite direction and probably cause arcing of the relay contacts. This circuit has a built-in safeguard against that condition.
Circuit Operation:
Assume that the motor is not running and that all relays are unenergized. When the forward button is pressed, a positive battery is applied via the NC contacts of B1 to the coil of relay RA/2. This will operate as the return path is via the NC contacts of D1. Relay RA/2 will operate. Contacts A1 maintain power to the relay even though the forward button is released. Contacts A2 apply power to the motor which will now run continuously in one direction. If now the reverse button is pressed, nothing happens because the positive supply for the switch is fed via the NC contact A1, which is now open because Relay RA/2 is energized. To Stop the motor the Stop switch is pressed, Relay D operates and its contact D1 breaks the power to relays A and B, (only Relay A is operated at the moment). If the reverse switch is now pressed and released. Relay B operates via NC contact A1 and NC contact D1. Contact B1 closes and maintains power so that the relay is now latched, even when the reverse switch is opened. Relay RC/2 will also be energized and latched. Contact B2 applies power to the motor but as contacts C1 and C2 have changed position, the motor will now run continuously in the opposite direction. Pressing the forward button has no effect as power to this switch is broken via the now open NC contact B1. If the stop button is now pressed. Relay D energizes, its contact D1 breaks power to relay B, which in turn breaks power to relay C via the NO contact of B1 and of course the motor will stop. All very easy. The capacitor across relay D is there to make sure that relay D will operate at least longer than the time relays A,B and C take to release.

author: Andy Collinson
e-mail: anc@mitedu.freeserve.co.uk
Source: http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk
0 comments

DC or AC Voltage Indicator Circuit

Description 
 This circuit is not a novelty, but it proved so useful, simple and cheap that it is worth building. When the positive (Red) probe is connected to a DC positive voltage and the Black probe to the negative, the Red LED will illuminate. Reversing polarities the Green LED will illuminate. Connecting the probes to an AC source both LEDs will go on.
The bulb limits the LEDs current to 40mA @ 220V AC and its filament starts illuminating from about 30V, shining more brightly as voltage increases. Therefore, due to the bulb filament behavior, any voltage in the 1.8 to 230V range can be detected without changing component values.
Circuit diagram: 


Parts:

  • P1 = Red Probe
  • P2 = Black Probe
  • D1 = 5 or 3mm. Red LED
  • D2 = 5 or 3mm. Green LED
  • LP = 1220V 6W Filament Lamp Bulb
Note: 
  •  A two colors LED (Red and Green) can be used in place of D1 & D2.

Source http://www.extremecircuits.net/2009/08/dc-or-ac-voltage-indicator-circuit.html
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ZN414 Portable AM Receiver

Notes:
Designed around the popular ZN414 ic this receiver covers the AM band from 550 - 1600 KHz with the values shown. For Longwave the coil needs to be changed. Use one from an old MW radio to save time. The ZN414 is a tuned radio frequency designed and incorporates several RF stages and an AM detector. It is easily overloaded and the operating voltage is critical to achieve good results.
The BC107 acts as a voltage follower, the four 1N4148 diodes providing a stable 2.4V supply. With the 10k pot , which acts as a selectivity control, and the b-e voltage drop of the BC107, the operating voltage for the ZN414 is variable from 0 to 1.8volts DC. If you live in an area that is permeated with strong radio signals, then the voltage will need to be decreased. I found optimum performance with a supply of around 1.2 volts. 

 Circuit diagram:

 The audio amplifier is built around an inverting 741 op-amp. Extra current boost is provided using the BC109 / BC179 complementary transistor pair. The voltage gain of the complete audio amplifier is around 15. The audio output of the complete receiver is really quite good and free from distortion. I may provide some sound samples later..


author: Andy Collinson
Source  http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/
0 comments

Electronic Security Door Key

Circuit
Description
A different circuit of electronic lock very simple, one and does not need a lot of materials in order to it is manufactured. The right keys of code should be stepped with the right line, so that is activated the optocupler IC2. If from error is stepped switch that does not belong in the combination, then the lock is trapped. In order to we restore the regular operation of lock, it should we press switches S1 or S12. Switch S1 makes Reset of lock externally and the S12 internally, the door. The Code the circuit as he is connected it is 147 and it can change, very easily, changing the connections in the switches of keyboard. The optocupler IC2, can drive any exterior circuit as Relay etc, ensuring simultaneously electric isolation the two circuits. The circuit can be also supplied from a battery 9V..

Part List


  • R1-7-9=1Kohm
  • R2-3-4-5=100Kohm
  • R6 =10Kohm
  • R9 =47Kohm
  • IC1 = 4066
  • IC2 =4N25
  • Q1-2=BC550
  • S1...11=Push button sw or keyboard
  • S12=Push button normal closed
  • All resistors is 1/4W 5% 


Sourec  Sam Electronic Circuits
1 comments

Capacitance Meter

Circuit diagram

Position Range
a 1 uf
b 100 nf
c 10 nf
d 1 nf
e 100 pf
Use X10 switch to measure up 10uf.
Use X0.5 switch for better readings on low values.
This project is more complex than the others described earlier. However, when finished, you will have an instrument capable of measuring all but the largest capacitors used in radio circuits. Unlike variable resistors, most variable capacitors are not marked with their values. As well, the markings of capacitors from salvaged equipment often rub off. By being able to measure these unmarked components, this project will prove useful to the constructor, vintage radio enthusiast or antenna experimenter.
The common 555 timer IC forms the heart of the circuit (Figure Three). Its function is to charge the unknown capacitor (Cx) to a fixed voltage. The capacitor is then discharged into the meter circuit. The meter measures the current being drawn through the 47 ohm resistor. The 555 repeats the process several times a second, so that the meter needle remains steady.
The deflection on the meter is directly proportional to the value of the unknown capacitor. This means that the scale is linear, like the voltage and current ranges on an analogue multimeter.
The meter has five ranges, from 100pF to 1uF, selected by a five position two pole switch. In addition, there is a x10 switch for measuring higher values and a divide-by-two facility to allow a better indication on the meter where the capacitor being measured is just above 100, 1000pF, 0.01, 0.1 or 1 uF.
Component values are critical. For best accuracy, it is desirable that the nine resistors wired to the Range switch have a 2% tolerance. If 0A47 diodes are not available, try OA91 or OA95 germanium diodes instead. Construct the meter in a plastic box; one that is about the size of your multimeter but deeper is ideal. The meter movement should as large as your budget allows; you will be using it to indicate exact values. A round 70mm-diameter movement salvaged from a piece of electronic equipment was used in the prototype. The meter you buy will have a scale of 0 to 50 microamps. This scale needs to be converted to read 0 to 100 (ie 20, 40, 60, 80, 100 instead of 10, 20, 30, 40, 50). Use of white correction fluid or small pieces of paper will help here.
The components can be mounted on a piece of matrix board or printed circuit board. Use a socket for the IC should replacement ever be needed. Keep wires short to minimise stray capacitance; stray capacitance reduces accuracy.
Calibrating the completed meter can be done in conjunction with a ready-built capacitance meter. Failing this, a selection of capacitors of known value, as measured on a laboratory meter, could be used. If neither of these options are available, simply buy several capacitors of the same value and use the one which is nearest the average as your standard reference. Use several standards to verify accuracy on all ranges.
To calibrate, disable both the x10 and divide-by-two functions (ie both switches open). Then connect one of your reference capacitors and switch to an appropriate range. Vary the setting of the 47k trimpot until the meter is reading the exact value of the capacitor. Then switch in the divide-by-two function. This should change the reading on the meter. Adjust the 10k trimpot so that the needle shows exactly twice the original reading. For example, if you used a 0.01 uF reference, and the meter read 10 on the 0.1 uF range, it should now read 20. Now switch out the divide-by-two function.
If you are not doing so already, change to a reference with a value equal to one of the ranges (eg 1000pF, 0.01uF, 0.1uF etc). Switch to the range equal to that value (ie the meter reads full-scale (100) when that capacitor is being measured. Switching in the x10 function should cause the meter indication to drop significantly. Adjust the 470 ohm trimpot so that the meter reads 10. Move down one range (eg from 0.01uF to 1000pF). The meter should read 100 again. If it does not, vary the 470 ohm trimpot until it does. That completes the calibration of the capacitance meter. Now try measuring other components to confirm that the measurements are reasonable.
With care, an accuracy of five percent or better should be possible on most ranges.
author: Hawker, P Amateur Radio Techniques, Seventh Edition, RSGB, 1980
Source: http://www.electronics-lab.com

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500W low cost 12V to 220V inverter

Using this circuit you can convert the 12V dc in to the 220V Ac. In this circuit 4047 is use to generate the square wave of 50hz and amplify the current and then amplify the voltage by using the step transformer.
 Circuit diagram
 How to calculate transformer rating
The basic formula is P=VI and between input output of the transformer we have Power input = Power output
For example if we want a 220W output at 220V then we need 1A at the output. Then at the input we must have at least 18.3V at 12V because: 12V*18.3 = 220v*1
So you have to wind the step up transformer 12v to 220v but input winding must be capable to bear 20A.

author: Ashad Mustufa
e-mail: mustufa66@hotmail.com
Source: http://www.electronics-lab.com
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Temperature-Controlled Switch

Description
It sounds rather mysterious: a switch that is controlled by its ambient temperature. All without the touch of a human hand, except for when you’re building this sort of electronic thermostat. There are a lot of handy uses for a thermally controlled switch. If the temperature inside your PC gets too high sometimes, the circuit can switch on an extra fan. You can also use to switch on an electric heater automatically if the room temperature is too low. There are innumerable potential applications for the thermostat described here.
Circuit diagram:
There are lots of ways to measure the temperature of an object. One very simple way is to use a semiconductor sensor, such as the National Semiconductor LM35 IC. This sensor is accurate to within 0.5 °C at 25 ºC, and few other sensors can do better or even come close to this level of accuracy. In the circuit described here, the sensor (IC2) generates an output voltage of 10 mV/°C, so the minimum temperature that can be measured is 0 °C. At 25 °C, the output voltage of the sensor is (25 °C × 10 mV/°C) = 0.25 V.

The circuit uses a TLC271 opamp as a comparator. It compares the voltage from the temperature sensor, which is connected to its non-inverting input (pin 3), with the voltage on its inverting input (pin 2). The latter voltage can be set with potentiometer P1. If the voltage from the sensor rises above the reference value set by P1 (which represents the desired temperature), the output of the comparator toggles to the full supply voltage level. The output is fed to transistor T1, which acts as a switch so the output can handle more current.

This makes it possible to energize a relay in order to switch a heavy load or a higher voltage. The transistor also supplies current to LED D1, which indicates whether the temperature is above the reference value. The reference value can be adjusted by P1 over the range of 18–30 °C with the indicated component values. Of course, you can adjust the range to suit your needs by modifying the value of R1 and/or R2. To prevent instability in the vicinity of the reference value, a small amount of hysteresis is provided by resistor R4 so the temperature will have to continue rising or falling by a small amount (approximately 0.5 °C) before the output state changes.

The LM35 is available in several different versions. All versions have a rated temperature range of at least 0–100 °C. One thing you may have to take into account is that the sensor has a relatively long response time. According to the datasheet, the sensor takes 3 minutes to reach nearly 100% of its final value in still air. The opamp has very low drift relative to its input voltages, and in the low-power mode used here it draws very little current. The sensor also draws very little current, so the total current consumption is less than 80 µA when LED D1 is off.

The advantage of low current consumption is that the circuit can be powered by a battery if necessary (6 V, 9 V or 12 V). The sensor has a rated operating voltage range of 4–30 V, and the TLC271 is rated for a supply voltage of 3–16 V. The circuit can thus work very well with a 12-V supply voltage, which means you can also use it for car applications (at 14.4 V). In that case, you must give additional attention to filtering out interference on the supply voltage.
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Whistle Responder Schematic - Circuit Diagram

Description
Some 20 years ago it was common to see small key-holders emitting an intermittent beep for a couple of seconds after its owner whistled. These devices contained a special purpose IC and therefore were not suited to home construction. The present circuit is designed around a general purpose hex-inverter CMos IC and, using miniature components and button clock-type batteries can be enclosed in a matchbox. It is primarily a gadget, but everyone will be able to find suitable applications.
Circuit operation
 This device beeps intermittently for about two seconds when a person in a range of around 10 meters emits a whistle. The first two inverters contained in IC1 are used as audio amplifiers. IC1A amplifies consistently the signal picked-up by the small electret-microphone and IC1B acts as a band-pass filter, its frequency being centered at about 1.8KHz. The filter is required in order to select a specific frequency, the whistle's one, stopping other frequencies that would cause undesired beeper operation. IC1C is wired as a Schmitt trigger, squaring the incoming audio signal. IC1D is a 2 second-delay monostable driving the astable formed by IC1E & IC1F. This oscillator generates a 3 to 5Hz square wave feeding Q1 and BZ1, thus providing intermittent beeper operation.
Circuit diagram:
 Parts: 
    R1 = 22K 1/4W Resistor
    R2 = 10K 1/4W Resistor
    R3 = 4M7 1/4W Resistor
    R4 = 100K 1/4W Resistors
    R5 = 220R 1/4W Resistor
    R6 = 330K 1/4W Resistor
    R7 = 47K 1/4W Resistor
    R8 = 100K 1/4W Resistors
    R9 = 2M2 1/4W Resistor
    R10 = 1M5 1/4W Resistor
    C1 = 47nF 63V Polyester or Ceramic Capacitors
    C2 = 10nF 63V Polyester Capacitors
    C3 = 10nF 63V Polyester Capacitors
    C4 = 1µF 63V Electrolytic Capacitors
    C6 = 1µF 63V Electrolytic Capacitors
    C5 = 47nF 63V Polyester or Ceramic Capacitors
    D1 = 1N4148 75V 150mA Diodes
    D2 = 1N4148 75V 150mA Diodes
    Q1 = BC337 45V 800mA NPN Transistor
    B1 = 2.8 or 3V Battery (see notes)
    IC1 = 4049 Hex Inverter IC
    BZ1 = Piezo sounder (incorporating 3KHz oscillator)
    MIC1 = Miniature electret microphone
Notes:
  • Power supply range: 2.6 to 3.6 Volts.
  • Standing current: 150µA.
  • Depending on dimensions of your box, you can choose from a wide variety of battery types:
  • 2 x 1.5 V batteries type: AA, AAA, AAAA, button clock-type, photo-camera type & others.
  • 2 x 1.4 V mercury batteries, button clock-type.
  • 1 x 3 V or 1 x 3.6 V Lithium cells. 
 Source http://www.extremecircuits.net/2009/12/whistle-responder-schematic-circuit.html
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Stereo Preamplifier with Bass-boost

circuit diagram:
Comments:
This preamplifier was designed to cope with CD players, tuners, tape recorders etc., providing a gain of 4, in order to drive less sensitive power amplifiers. As modern Hi-Fi home equipment is frequently fitted with small loudspeaker cabinets, the bass frequency range is rather sacrificed. This circuit features also a bass-boost, in order to overcome this problem. You can use a variable resistor to set the bass-boost from 0 to a maximum of +16dB @ 30Hz. If a fixed, maximum boost value is needed, the variable resistor can be omitted and substituted by a switch.
Notes:
Schematic shows left channel only, but R1, R2, R3 and C1, C2, C3 are common to both channels.
For stereo operation P1, P2 (or SW1), R4, R5, R6, R7, R8 and C4, C5, C6, C7 must be doubled.
Numbers in parentheses show IC1 right channel pin connections.
A log type for P2 ensures a more linear regulation of bass-boost.
Needing a simple boost-in boost-out operation, P2 must be omitted and SW1 added as shown in the diagram.
For stereo operation SW1 must be a DPST type.
Please note that, using SW1, the boost is on when the switch is open, and off when the switch is closed.
Technical data (30V supply):
Gain @ 1KHz: 4
Max. input voltage @ 50Hz: 500mV RMS (280mV RMS @ 20V supply)
Max. input voltage @ 100Hz: 700mV RMS (460mV RMS @ 20V supply)
Max. output voltage: >8V RMS (>5V RMS @ 20V supply)
Max. bass-boost referred to 1KHz: 400Hz = +2dB; 200Hz = +5dB; 100Hz = +10dB; 50Hz = +14dB; 30Hz = +16dB
Total harmonic distortion @ 100Hz and 1V RMS output: 0.02%
Total harmonic distortion @ 1KHz and 1V RMS output: 0.006%
Total harmonic distortion @10KHz and 1V RMS output: 0.007%
Total harmonic distortion @ 100Hz and 5V RMS output: 0.02%
Total harmonic distortion @ 1KHz and 5V RMS output: 0.0013%
Total harmonic distortion @10KHz and 5V RMS output: 0.005%
Current drawing: 2mA

author: RED Free Circuit Designs
Source: http://www.redcircuits.com/
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24 Hour Timer

Description:
These two circuits are multi-range timers offering periods of up to 24 hours and beyond. Both are essentially the same. The main difference is that when the time runs out, Version 1 energizes the relay and Version 2 de-energizes it. The first uses less power while the timer is running; and the second uses less power after the timer stops. Pick the one that best suits your application.


Notes:
The Cmos 4060 is a 14 bit binary counter with a built in oscillator. The oscillator consists of the two inverters connected to Pins 9, 10 & 11; and its frequency is set by R3, R4 & C3.The green Led flashes while the oscillator is running: and the IC counts the number of oscillations. Although it's a 14 bit counter, not all of the bits are accessible. Those that can be reached are shown on the drawing.
By adjusting the frequency of the oscillator you can set the length of time it takes for any given output to go high. This output then switches the transistor; which in turn operates the relay. At the same time, D1 stops the count by disabling the oscillator. Ideally C3 should be non-polarized; but a regular electrolytic will work, provided it doesn't leak too badly in the reverse direction. Alternatively, you can simulate a non-polarized 10uF capacitor by connecting two 22uF capacitors back to back (as shown).
Using "Trial and Error" to set a long time period would be very tedious. A better solution is to use the Setup tables provided; and calculate the time required for Pin 7 to go high. The Setup tables on both schematics are interchangeable. They're just two different ways of expressing the same equation.
For example, if you want a period of 9 Hours, the Range table shows that you can use the output at Pin 2. You need Pin 2 to go high after 9 x 60 x 60 = 32 400 seconds. The Setup table tells you to divide this by 512; giving about 63 seconds. Adjust R4 so that the Yellow LED lights 63 seconds after power is applied. This will give an output at Pin 2 after about 9 Hours.
The Support Material for the timers includes a detailed circuit description - parts lists - a step-by-step guide to construction - and more. A suitable Veroboard layout for each version is shown below:
 
The timer was designed for a 12-volt supply. However, provided a suitable relay is used, the circuit will work at anything from 5 to 15-volts. Applying power starts the timer. It can be reset at any time by a brief interruption of the power supply. The reset button is optional; but it should NOT be used during setup. The time it takes for the Yellow LED to light MUST be measured from the moment power is applied. Although R1, R2 and the two LEDs help with the setup, they are not necessary to the operation of the timer. If you want to reduce the power consumption, disconnect them once you've completed the setup. If you need a longer period than 24-hours, increase the value of C3.
 
author: Ron J
web site: http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk
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73 MHz Hallogene Lamp Radio-Controlled

Circuit diagram
This circuit is a 73 MHz Hallogene Lamp Radio-Controlled. The purpose of it is to control the power state of a hallogene lamp by a remote control. When we press the push botton of the remonte control, the power state of the lamp will be changed, so, if the lamp was turned on, it will turned off and if it was turned on, it will turned off. If we press to the button another time, the same action will be occured. When the button is pressed, a LED indicator lights on the remote control. The system is consisted by two separate circuit. One is the remote control, or the emmetor. The other is the receptor, or the hallogene lamp controller. We plug the input of the lamp controller circuit to the 120VAC source of the sector to supply it. The lamp must be pluged to the output of the circuit to be supplied and controlled. The controller circuit has also an antenna to receive the signal of the remote control. The remote control has also an antenna to transmit the signal to the controller circuit and have to be powered by a 9V battery. Two things important for my circuit are not mentioned in the schematic. There are about the two logic component. The first one is the Schmitt trigger NOT gate (74LS14). Its Vcc pin must be connected to the output of the +5V regulator (7805). And its GND pin must be connected to the ground of the circuit. The second one is the JK Flip-Flop (74LS76). Its Vcc pin must be connected to the output of the +5V regulator (7805). And its GND pin must be connected to the ground of the circuit.

author: Serge Saati, serge_saati@hotmail.com
Source  http://www.electronics-lab.com/
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RF Amplifier Wide Band (40MHZ)

The sensitivity of receiver it is possible to increase itself considerably, if is interfered, between this and his aerial, a amplifier RF. The amplifier of circuit, does not use in resonant circuits and for this is suitable, so much for mid waves, what for the low waves, up to the 40 MHZ. The gain his it is the order 20db and it consumes 7mA, when it is supplied with 12 until 15V dc. His entry and the exit are adapted with coaxial cable, complex resistance 75ohm. 

Part List

R1=75ohm R8=470ohm C5-6=47nF 100V
R2=10Kohm R9=2.2Kohm Q1-2-3=AF125
R3-7=5.6Kohm R10=68ohm J1-2=Jack BNC
R4-5 =4.7Kohm C1-3=47nF 100V
R6=820ohm C2-4=10nF 100V
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Alternative Halogen Power Supply

Description
Readers who do not care to modify the power supply of an old PC into a suitable halogen power source (see our April 2006 issue), may find the present design a welcome alternative. The circuit does not need any changes to the power supply. It allows the halogen lamps to be initially powered from the 5V rail of the supply via RE2, so that they are preheated. Subsequently, they are powered from the 12-V rail via RE1, while at the same time the 5-V rail is disconnected.
This ensures that the current surge through the lamps is so small that the protection in the power supply does not react. Operation of the circuit is as follows. As soon as the PC supply provides power, IC1.B drives T1 into conduction and RE2 closes. The potential at the non-inverting input of IC1.B is 6 V, while that at the inverting input rises from 0 V. Lamp LA1 is then connected to the 5-V rail.
Circuit diagram:

After a short span of time, the voltage across C1 has risen to a value where IC1.B changes over, whereupon T1 is cut off. At the same time, IC1.A drives T2 into conduction. The circuit is then decoupled from the 5-V rail and connected to the 12-V terminal. The 5-V rail in the PC power supply is protected against spikes on the 12-V line by D1. Diode D2 protects IC1 against over-voltage on its inputs should the 12-V rail fail.
Resistors R4 and R5 limit the base currents of the transistors. D3 and D4 are quenching diodes. The time during which lamp LA1 is powered by 5 V is preset with potentiometer P1. The maximum time span is about 0.33 s and the minimum 3.3 ms. The latter is perhaps rather short, but it also depends to some extent on the type of power supply used. Some experimentation may be worthwhile!


author: Stijn Coenen, Elektor Electronics
Source-  http://www.extremecircuits.net/2010/05/alternative-halogen-power-supply.html
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Frequency Doubler with 4011

Description
This frequency doubler uses one CMOS quad, two input NAND gate package type 4011. The frequency doubler proper consists of an inverter IC1B, two differentiating networks R1/C1, R2/C2 and NAND gate IC1A, IC1C and IC1D function as input and output buffers. In Fig.2 exist the pulses in different points of circuit.
Circuit diagrams


Source  http://users.otenet.gr/~athsam/frequency_doubler_with_4011.htm
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The Link "P" - Privacy Link! (Telephone Intercom)

Yes folks, it's time for another horse to bolt from the Downunder stable of telephone intercoms (unfortunately before the gate could be shut on it...) and other zany electronics type ideas. The circuit you are about to see is the culmination of some effort at improving the basic Link intercom design. You may think that pulse dialing is 'old hat' nowadays, but the exercise of building and testing the Link 'P' in this format, and understanding how it all works, is well worth the effort. Not to mention all those out there who have the old style rotary dial phones as collectables - you can now make them work for you, or display them actually working with confidence.
Counting, pulsing, timing and simple logic circuits are at the heart of this design, as with all other 'Link' versions. In a day where PIC controllers are popping up in electronics magazines by the dozen (about half the projects in some magazines now contain a PIC chipset,) I feel that we could be losing the art of designing in simple 'hard wired' logic, and thus this approach is used partly for educational purposes. Many readers who may decide to build up the Link 'P' will 'see the logic' (pardon the pun) after they have a working model servicing their home, small workshop, factory, preschool or other application. Besides, there's an easy upgrade to Tone Dialing if you really want it anyway... Happy switching! AH Downunder.

The New 'Link P' - Privacy Link
This version of the Link goes beyond anything previously attempted by me in the area of telephone type projects. Having achieved genuine ring trip (not that hard, but a bit tricky to design with 'off the shelf' $5 components first time around...) I'm now heading down the track for 'two calls at the same time (either two internal calls, or one internal and one external on the outside line - providing it's legal in your state/country of origin...) but several things have to be achieved first.
 In order to achieve a status between two levels of switching for two calls at the same time, you must first establish privacy on each call. Otherwise, you will end up with all four phones talking to each other, and that just won't do. So the Link 'P' is an intermediate stage between the basic Link design, and the fully blown one (yet to be realized, but not that far away,) with all the 'bells and whistles' features. In the diagram above, you can see in block format, how this is achieved. The RTC (Ring Trip Circuit,) Reg. U (Register, which acts like an old style Uniselector,) and the STG (Service Tone Generator,) are all part of the basic Link design. However, I've added in two new 'blocks' of circuitry, and these are LLO (Line Lock Out, which provides busy tone back to callers who can't access the Link to make a call,) and Vertical Control (which governs who can and can't make a call - simple logic circuitry to determine who's first in and best dressed!) The relay switching matrix is akin to a simplified 'crossbar (XBAR) system.
There is a full circuit diagram spread over several pages later on in this article, which gives the details for connections and components for all four phones, and I will refer to these a little later on, but we'll just stick with the block diagram for now. When a phone is picked up 'off hook' in the basic Link, it receives dial tone from the STG, and then the caller proceeds to dial a one digit number into the Register. This arrangement works well, except for those occasions when someone else picks their phone up 'off hook' at the same time, and tries to dial a number too. The Link 'P' upgrade avoids this situation, by enabling only one phone in the 'off hook' state for the purposes of making a call, and if you are the first one to do so, you will be connected to the Reg. U and the STG. Any other caller will remain on Line Lock Out (LLO) and will receive Busy Tone, to indicate that the Link is busy with a call. You can then dial any one of the other three phones, and the call will progress as per normal with the Link type circuitry.
The called party's phone will ring at around one ring per second (real 40 Volt AC ring this time, no more buzzers,) and when the called party picks their phone up 'off hook' to answer the call the RTC circuit will trip the ring, and they too, will be connected to the same level of the Link 'P' as the caller. Thus privacy will be maintained on all calls, and all other phones who are excluded from any particular call will receive a 'busy' signal, indicating that they need to try again a little later on.

Why Not A PIC Controller?
Never say never, is the old saying, and I can see the day coming when there are two Link 'P' circuits joined together, and switching calls between the LLO and the 'P' levels of the Link, so that two calls at the same time can occur. This will be a more likely task for a PIC type controller, but as you can see, the more features you add, the more complex and costly the link becomes. But at the end of the day, you will end up with a worthwhile project that will serve you well for many years, with just this current upgrade, if that's what you want.
Why stick with relays when an electronic switch can be bought, virtually on the one chip? For starters, they're expensive (between $60 and $80 for a commercial chip) and secondly they require address decoding, which is best done by a PIC anyway. Admittedly, relays are expensive to buy, but then again, a lot of hobbyists and technicians have a 'relay drawer' as part of their spare parts on the workbench, and the Link 'P' can be built up with just about any assortment of DPDT !2 volt relays ( I know, my current model uses nine relays - originally half of them were of the larger 'heavy duty variety, with the other half being of the DIL mini variety - the Link worked just as well, but the larger ones do cost some room on the SK-10 prototyping boards, and suck a bit more current when in operation.)
The electronic type of switching chips are basically an addressable array of SCR's, (triacs) and maybe we'll locate a cheaper version for an upgrade at a later date, but for now, simple line relays will have to do.
Switching a Call on the Link 'P' Version
See diagrams further down from here on. Each line circuit consists of a Line Relay (LR1 to LR4) a Link Access relay (LA1 to LA4) a flip flop (one half of a CD 4013B per line) and a line optocoupler (OC1 to OC4 - a 4N25 or equivalent) two diodes, two resistors and two transistors, and of course, each individual phone handset. Note that the original version of the Link 'P' had reed switches installed where the optocouplers now are, and this arrangement worked quite well. The optocouplers are not as robust (that's why I call them 'poptocouplers'!!!) but are more economical on current drain.
There are two methods of detecting a pickup of a phone into its 'off hook' status. The first is a simpler version, requiring no 'scanner' circuitry, and I will describe this briefly first. With all four phones in their 'on hook' status (ie: hung up) all Q bar outputs of each individual flip flop are at logic high. Each of these outputs is monitored by an AND gate daisy chain, so that with all four outputs remaining high, the output of the last of the four AND gates will be a logic high too. This logical outcome also appears on the collector lead of each line optocoupler (OC1 to OC4). When a caller picks up their phone off hook, they form a DC loop from +Vcc down through the LED of their line optocoupler, through the contacts of their LR and LA line relay contacts, through the phone handset, and down to ground via the 1K winding of transformer, BTX. The LED lights up and switches the internal phototransistor hard on, which then allows that line flip flop (FF1 to FF4) to operate their LA relay set, and this in turn, switches them to the dialing and service tone generation part of the Link 'P'.

At the same time, the AND gate daisy chain 'sees' the chain broken by one of the four Q bar outputs going low, as the flip flop changes state, and this 'breaks the chain' thus making the output of the last AND gate in the chain change to a logic low. This output at logic low, allows none of the other three phones to pick up 'off hook' and enable their LA relays. They cannot now gain access to the dial up level of the Link, unless they are the 'called party' whose number the caller will now dial into the REG U Register device (IC2.) Dial pulses are received via OC5 into IC2 pin 14, and the Link then operates as per normal. Pin 3 of IC2 goes low, allowing C1 to charge up and produce Ring Pulses out of pin 9. This also enables IC1a to produce an interrupted Ring Tone into the 8R winding of TX via C3 and R6, coupling this signal to the calling party's phone. When both parties have hung up back to the 'on hook' status, the link P will reset itself due to capacitor C5 charging up, after the dialing loop has been broken, the two LEDS inside OC1 and OC2 have extinguished, and the two phototransistors have switched off. The positive going pulse is sent to pin 15 of IC2 via diode D2, and to all four flip flop reset pins, so that the link P will be reset and waiting for the next call.
Advanced Link 'P' Circuitry
You can have up to ten phones connected to the Link 'P' version. Now wait a minute, there's only nine viable outputs on the 4017 decade counter (IC2). That's true, but by adding another flip flop and two AND gates, extension "0" can be realized. If you dial a 0 normally, the decade counter chip fully cycles from pin 3 through pins 2, 4, 7, 10, then 1, 5, 6, 9 and 11 and then back to pin 3. If you wire the extra circuit as shown below, then when you dial a '0' (zero) the flip flop will 'set' on the 9th pulse (pin 11 of IC2) switch in the extra AND gate, so that pin 3 AND the Q output of FF6 will form extension '0'. This would then be connected to a base resistor for a driver transistor, that would pulse relay LR10 on and off. Also don't forget the addition of RS10 and LA10 and all other associated line circuit components. The flip flop resets along with all other flip flops (FF1 to FF5) on Link reset from the master reset line (MR) with both phones on the call hanging up.
 author: Austin Hellier - Wollongong City, Australia © 1997 - 2004
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